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Installation
This is the one area where I strongly feel the
product needs improvement. Not only did I find the included
instructions somewhat lacking, but installing the water block on your
motherboard is quite a task.

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Before I get to the install, I would like to
comment on the water block included with the product. Like all their
products, it is truly impressive in terms of quality. A pic was taken
without flash to show you just how smooth it is and to demonstrate the lack
of imperfections typically found in a number of products. Needless to
say, I was seriously impressed with its overall quality and beauty.
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The first thing you'll want to do is attach
the included adapter to the block itself. This is easily done with the
four included mounting screws. However, the problem with this product
is that not only do you need to remove the motherboard to install the bottom
bracket, but you can't even have the motherboard mounted on the case before
you install the water block. Unlike some other products, nothing holds
the bottom bracket in place, forcing you to mount the block before even
mounting the motherboard on your case. I strongly feel they should
have at least designed the bottom bracket with some elevated standoffs so
that you can at least mount the motherboard on the chassis prior to
installing the block itself.

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The problems with the install don't end there
though. Installing the actual block is quite a challenge! The
problem lies in the included spring tension screws. You'll quickly
find it practically impossible to mount the block on the CPU without some
serious force on your part. With that said, I think it was best to
provide you all with some tips before attempting to mount the block on your
processor. This will not only help you save some valuable time, but
also help avoid damage to your components...
- Place your motherboard on a flat
surface with some cushioning to avoid damage to the solder points on the
bottom of the board. The padding usually supplied with your
motherboard is an excellent option.
- Before you attempt to screw in the
block, grab your Phillips screwdriver and place the tip in one of the mounting springs.
Place it on
a flat surface and apply some pressure to somewhat compress the springs a
bit before installing.
- After compressing the included tension
springs, start by installing one of them to one side of the block but only
screw it in to the point where you are certain it will not pop out of place.
- Follow by attaching the rest of the tension
screws on the opposite side of the block and alternate between each to apply
even pressure.

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After you have installed the block, the next
step is to start attaching the included 1/4" tubing. While they
provide more than enough to support just about any setup, you want to be
cautious and cut the tubing appropriately. You don't want it too short
or too long. This is important in any water-cooled setup because it
can restrict water flow or you might end up having to purchase additional tubing in
order to install it properly. Mount your included PCI adapter and
attach the cut tubing from the block to the inner fittings.

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After you're done with the internal components,
you can move on to the external tubing installation. Now, it is
important to read all directions included and follow them carefully before
proceeding. Also, the length of the tubing here is also important.
You want some extra slack so that it will support any setup. Whether
you will have the Tundra side by side with your HTPC or placed on top of it,
you want to be sure the tubing is long enough for either. The PCI
adapter is labeled in/out. You want to connect the tubing coming from
the "IN" fitting to the fitting labeled "OUT" on the Tundra. Then
connect the tubing coming from the "OUT" fitting on the adapter to the "IN"
fitting on the Tundra. After you have done this, the final step is to
plug in the included power cable. This will supply power from the your
power supply to the Tundra externally via the PCI adapter. The Tundra
was connected to the
nMediaPC HTPC
180BA, a well-designed case that was kindly provided for evaluation and
one that will be reviewed here very shortly.
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Silverstone provides two 500cc bottles of
their own thermal fluid that features an appealing dark blue dye. The reservoir does have its min/max markings
to help you determine how much fluid you need to dump in it for maximum
performance and quiet operation. I found that roughly 1 1/2 bottles
was enough to hit the max mark after running the unit for about 20 minutes
or so. This leaves you with plenty of spare fluid to add over time
when levels go down. Make sure there are no leaks around the block
fittings or any other fittings to the unit itself.
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Some final shots of the TD01 setup in a true
HDTV environment. The unit will blend in quite well with all your home
video/audio components and many will not even know what it is until you show
them. This system also helps in reducing noise levels and was designed to run practically silent.
Now, I do have mixed feelings about the lighted analog dial on the Tundra.
I found it to be a bit too bright for such an environment and therefore
distracting. A subtle blue lighting would have been preferred.
However, the point of the bright white LEDs is that you can easily see the
temp dial from a distance, keeping you at ease that it is running properly.
Most will have to get used to the bright lighting though and it will take a
bit of time before it doesn't even bother you at all.
Performance
To measure performance, SpeedFan was used to
capture temperature readings throughout testing and were adjusted for
accuracy via the readings from the BIOS. To load the system, Sisoftware's SANDRA XI was used. Keep in mind though that in an HTPC
setup, chances are many will never load the system the way they would with
their primary desktop system. Regardless, temps were indeed captured
both idle and under load to give you an overall idea of how well this
product does perform.

Temp readings were actually quite impressive.
In the end, what this product will do is certainly keep your temps just
under 40șC whether you are running at stock speed or overclocking. I
was quite impressed, considering the small HTPC chassis that was used in
testing this product, as well as the smaller 1/4" tubing. Remember
that loading the system they way I did would probably never happen in such a
setup. The temps provided show the best and worst scenarios.
So what about overclocking? Well, in
this setup I used what I think is one of the best MicroATX motherboards ever
released for such a build. The Biostar TForce 6100-939 is a board not only designed for
such a setup, but one that will certainly please a majority of overclockers,
novice or advanced users.

Overclocking was impressive with the TD01.
After extensive testing, I was able to take my 2.2GHz 3700+ up to a very
stable 2.9GHz. This was actually beyond my expectations considering
the fact that that a small HTPC chassis was used with limited cooling
capabilities. The large, high quality copper-based water block included with this
product is quite impressive!
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