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The following picture shows the motherboard gasket and the motherboard
patch prior to installation.
The
motherboard gasket properly installed.
Step
5. More insulation. To further insure against any possibility
of condensation, the gap between ZIF socket and the motherboard
gasket is filled with more dielectric grease. The only area that
should be left exposed is the actual processor itself.
Step
6. Mount the water block. The mounting of the water block
is pretty standard fare using the hardware that is provided. What
we wish to focus on here are a couple of tips. The easiest way we
have found to apply thermal paste (in this case Arctic Silver 3)
is to identify the area of the water block (or heat sink) that requires
coverage. After careful measurement, the area to be covered is defined
using masking tape.
Next,
we apply a small bead of paste to the center of the surface. Using
a credit card, we carefully spread the paste until the entire surface
is covered.
The
thickness of the application should be as close as possible to the
thickness of the masking tape used. The following picture
shows the end result.
The
following picture shows the Swiftech 478-UHT mounted on the Albatron
motherboard we will be using.
One
last tip: In order to prevent the water block from becoming loose
over time, apply some Crazy Glue (or the equivalent) to the screw
threads and nuts used to mount the water block. One good turn with
a screw driver will loosen the nuts if you wish to remove the block
in the future.
Step 6. Install motherboard. Install the motherboard in your
case. At this time you will also need to wire the TEC to the PSU
you will be using. Before proceeding to the next step, check
the installation and wiring carefully.
Step 7. Set up your water cooling circuit. At this point,
you are ready to install the remainder of your water cooling components.
Remember, you will be attempting to remove a lot of heat. Try to
get the best, properly matched components you can afford.
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